Jewelry Buying Guide
TYPES OF JEWELRY
Rings
We know you love your rings, but do you know what constitutes your ring! Have you ever been confused with options of the types of rings, their settings and bands available? We have made for you a step by step guide, which will help you making an informed choice.
A ring has four basic elements:
- The Head or Setting
- The Band
- The Claw
- The Shoulder
1. The Head or Setting
This is where the stone of the ring is mounted. We have listed out some of the most popular settings for you:
Prong
It is the classic ring setting and also the most popular one. There are claws which hold the gemstone and grip it tightly over the band. It has to be treated with extreme care.
Prongs have either a four claw or a six claw setting. While a four claw setting looks more revealing as it gives more exposure to the gemstone, a six claw setting is better for security. Prong settings are mostly used for holding diamonds.
Bezel
This is the second most popular setting with rings. It covers the stones from the sides, encircles it and holds it tightly in its place. It’s becoming increasingly famous due to the protection it provides to the gemstone and is perfectly suitable for everyday wear in busy lifestyle.
A bezel setting has its variations are a Full Bezel or a Partial Bezel. A full bezel covers all the sides while a partial bezel leaves some sides open. Depending on the look and the type of the gemstone, it decided whether to use a full or a partial bezel setting.
Tension
In this type of setting the tension of metal bands hold the gemstone in place. The band is measured by laser and crafted in such a way that the tension between the two ends of the bands holds the gemstone. This type of setting is mostly used for gemstones with lesser cuts; diamonds are mostly not made in this setting because the diamond gets lesser exposure. These settings are specifically made for the stones which they are holding and it cannot be resized for a different stone. Thus, it’s a one-time setting; there can be no replacement of the stone by any kind of adjustment.
Cluster
As the word suggests, it’s a cluster of stones with a center stone. The center stone is mostly a large center stone given a balance. It might be a different stone or a blended in same stone. The circular and oval settings are most common but various other collections can be made such as a flower cluster, petal cluster, etc.
A cluster setting is mostly used for diamonds for showing elegance but also a lot of other gemstones can also be. Cluster settings are a frugal choice. They give a better appearance and a bigger statement in a less expensive way.
Pave
This setting has a number of small stones, closely placed adjacent to each other. The stones are separated by very tiny pieces of the band metal. If the stones are extremely small, it sometimes is called the micro-pave setting.
While Pave setting is not the most common one, it gives a neat but studded look. It is a great option to opt for if you want a different view of the top stone and the supporting stones.
Channel
This setting is not used for the center stone. It is setting of stones in the band to make a channel. The stones are placed closed to each other and drilled in the band of the ring. This setting is mostly used for diamonds and is famous for its use in the wedding rings.
Flush
Also known as Gypsy setting, this setting holds the gemstones in the band of the ring. The stone is placed in the drilled hole in the band and then the band is hammered from the sides to get to hold the stone.
This setting is mostly popular with the men’s rings, specially men’s wedding rings. Because the band is hammered to set around the stone, this setting should not be used with softer stones which might affect the shape and the cut of the stone.
2. The Band
The band is the circular part of the ring that sits around your finger. Jewelers call this the “shank”.
Tapered
Shank is wider at the front of the head, or mounting, and tapers as it circles back behind the finger.
Euro
Squared off on the underside, which helps a band with a heavy stone stay centered on the finger.
Traditional
A band whose width is completely even from front to back.
Straight
Features cuts in the metal reaching out and away from the stone.
Pinched
Has a “squished” look at the mounting as well as a little ways back (still visible on the front of the finger), which gives an ovoid shape to the metal.
Knife Edge
Bypass
The shank curves up on one side and down on the other to cup a central stone like a pair of hands that do not actually meet holding a large object.
Split
The shank splits from the head of the ring, so it looks like two different bands.
Cathedral
Uses metal arches to curve up from the band and frame the stone.
3. The Claw
It is also described as talons, holds the stone on the ring. It keeps the stones in place. Usually four or might be more claws are there, which usually is of the same metal as the band of the ring. It forms a container shape for the gemstone to sink in and then bends over it to hold it.
The shape of the claws can vary, it might be flat or pointed or ovals or even decorate in some other shape. Mostly associated with the prong setting, the 4 claws hold the smaller stones while for bigger stones, more claws should be used
4. The Shoulder
The area which joins the setting or the head to the band is known as shoulder. Shoulder might be complex; designer or might not exist at all in the case of flush type setting. They are used to support the gemstone. While you chose the shoulder, you should keep in mind that the shoulder should enhance the gemstone look and feel; it should not overwhelm the gemstone. At the same time, beautiful shoulder can be designed with bands like cathedral or pave`.
